Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer
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When Anatoli Boukreev died on the slopes of Annapurna on Christmas day, 1997, the world lost one of the greatest adventurers of our time.
In Above the Clouds, both the man and his incredible climbs on Mt. McKinley, K2, Makalu, Manaslu, and Everest-including his diary entries on the infamous 1996 disaster, written shortly after his return-are immortalized. There also are minute technical details about the skill of mountain climbing, as well as personal reflections on what life means to someone who risks it every day. Fully illustrated with gorgeous color photos, Above the Clouds is a unique and breathtaking look at the world from its most remote peaks.
his his became apparent it his first love, Valentina psychically connected them. golden crucifix Anatoli took care to wear around mother's talisman. source of He stress for her. encour- dreams to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Dreams and premonitions icate when for the family. In 1979, his would have been pursuit of a career in engineering or geophysics more advantageous when his The del- neck was expressed guilt about the risks he faced When him his great efforts left with
the lected in his apartment among them. Six in Almaty Titled "Prologue," months have passed team returned from our are far away. The and last bits pieces of writing that had col- over the years. This short introduction was it was dated December 1989. since the members of the national Soviet of Kanchenjunga. The Himalayas traverse celebrations with friends and family and the honors Moscow are only memories of the past. So much me in such a short time. When I returned home,
one docu- mentation with endless stamps from endless bureaucrats in your hand. Otherwise the next day you started over. trating. Living costs skyrocketed, inflation and wages did not change. me as cal strength to deal pline A on which I made money alive with the pettiness of my life frus- worthless, on K2. Exercise had become food and water; without based was insanely thoughts were always occupied with would keep me the training that important to My It my was
throughout the expedition. Toyota jeeps loaded on for Askole flights to up with us by our and and car. Finally joining at last all our supplies be canceled. Peter and the we on the set off earlier experiences, things left went new Skardu the all officer raced us in Askole, the officer as- man was sembled sixty-seven porters. Each tion of food, us Bad weather had caused the twenty-ninth. from Islamabad to catch down with assigned a load and a ra- trail to Base
depending on the period. The rest altitude to be period depends on the one hundred meters an hour above 7,500 meters. The able to climb summit of K2 8,611 meters high; is would outlined a schedule that I have prepared our bodies to work ten hours above 7,900 meters on summit we day. There was no guarantee that in adhering to could summit. In the forbidden zone, commitment of time and hand. But the my schedule and luck play fate effort to their adequate acclimati-