One Mountain Thousand Summits: The Untold Story Tragedy and True Heroism on K2 [Hardcover]

One Mountain Thousand Summits: The Untold Story Tragedy and True Heroism on K2 [Hardcover]

Language: English

Pages: 0


Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

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the teams vying for the summit four years later, the Serbs, Koreans, Norwegians, and Hugues D’Aubarède planned to use bottled oxygen. And roughly half of the expeditions, including the Koreans, Serbs, Italians, and D’Aubarède, had supplemented their manpower by hiring Pakistani or Nepali mountain staff. Variously called “guides,” “climbing-Sherpas,” “high-altitude porters,” or simply “HAPs,” each man’s skill level and his particular responsibilities were ill defined and varied considerably from

line was thin and light compared to other climbing ropes, but with a breaking strength of more than five thousand pounds. It was more than sixty meters long—the last of the approximately six hundred meters of line that had left camp that morning. They had almost fixed it as well, but at the last moment Pemba and Jumik decided to use a section of old line they found in place from the previous season, and carry the length of new rope to the summit in case of an emergency. Jumik and Pasang Lama had

needed access to the Thuraya database, and he needed more phone calls from Wilco and Gerard. Tom knew it was futile to try calling them—their phones would be turned off to save battery power. How come they haven’t called? What’s happened? As a Thuraya dealer, Tom first contacted the regional distributor he knew, who passed the request on to the national office. But by then it was midnight on the East Coast, and the middle of the morning on a Saturday in the United Arab Emirates. Tom wrote

following the lower ridge as it weaved around gendarmes and gargoyles of rotten rock. Finally, a little after dusk, they set foot on the glacier and trudged toward the advance base camp. The American international expedition’s cook, Deedar, had hiked up to meet them with food and water for the exhausted climbers. The solemn group continued the last several hours to base camp in silence. Roeland and Chris were monitoring the situation on the SSE Spur. Pemba and Cas had departed from Camp IV a

morning hours of August 1, 2008 and set foot toward the top of K2 were bound together by one inescapable fact: No one team would have the luxury of complete independence, of being alone. They would have to work together, and share the same path on the same mountain. A brisk, metronomic beat shattered the silence. It was eleven p.m. in the city of Utrecht, the Netherlands, and Maarten van Eck’s telephone was ringing. Maarten sat at a tastefully modern wood table in his darkened kitchen, three

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